Lots of info to come. There are some very well known issues like leaking tanks that usually are the results of bad o-rings. Etc...
So you left your ecig on the dresser went to bed and when you woke up it was empty. If there is a pool of eLiquid on the dresser top then that is a leak. Believe it or not, it can also be due to evaporation. So lets talk about evaporation first. Very large juice port and wicking surface area atomizers will actually evaporate the liquid in a tank. This is normal. If you do notice gurgling or a stream or a pool of eLiquid outside the atomizer then that is a leak. Most leaks are caused by an improper tank seal, usually at the top. But it is good to check all o-rings for nicks or thin spots. The 30mm VCMT that came factory with o-rings installed incorrectly and how to fix that. Make sure all seals and o-rings are lubricated when reassembling and free of all fibers and debris. Some older atomizers like the Fogger that did not have a lip around the air inlet would siphon leak. So would the Kaiser. The newer atomizers have a raised lip around the air inlet. Do not let the wick touch that lip or you can end up with a siphon leak. So what is a siphon leak? Once a juice trail is started from tank to wick through air inlet, the river will continue to flow, siphoning out the entire tank. Coil cup atomizer designs where the air inlet is below the juice channels can also leak with insufficient wicking but even the newer designs like the Bachelor have a raised lip around the air inlet to minimize this.
Seeping/Condensation around AFC
It is common for Direct To Lung (DTL) wide open airflow atomizers to collect condensed eLiquid around the Airflow Control (AFC) giving the appearance of a seep or leak. Try changing your vape technique first. Let go of the fire button before you stop inhaling and then exhale away from the atty/mod. This takes practice. It is not common on Mouth To Lung (MTL) atomizers. On a DTL tank without using the technique above, a little wisp of vapor goes back down the air channels and will condense in the atomizers air passages. If it is a leak, see above.
If you get gurgling after a tank refill, this is normal on top fill attys with no Juice Flow Control (JFC). Simply invert the atty and mod over a tissue for 60s and let the eLiquid run out the drip tip. You can try closing the AFC when refilling but it doesn't always work. Once that eLiquid is cleared, the vacuum at the top of the tank will hold the eLiquid back if their are no seal/o-ring or wicking issues.
If the tank continues to gurgle, check wicking and seals/o-rings.
Burnt or decomposed cotton is unmistakable. It is truly horrible. When this happens you have to change the wicking sometimes the whole build and wash out the chimney or even entire tank as it will never go away until you do.
Hot spots in coils due to shorts can reach temperatures high enough to decompose eLiquid into acrolein which has a green apple aroma and formaldehyde which is just plain nasty tasting. On these you must correct the short but the taste will clear, try blowing through the atomizer even when firing once the short is corrected.
A hotleg condition is where the coil is shorted and the legs get hot. results in same thing above. On more powerful mods, the legs will vaporize resulting in an open circuit or check atomizer message.
Black gunk or eLiquid/wick discoloration. Time for a rebuild and atty wash. If this is occurring too frequently lower voltage/power/temperature and/or flavoring.
Temperature Control (TC) problems
The 510 connector on a TC mod is one of the most common TC mod critical components to fail. Following that is the board and then batteries. Sometimes internal wiring and battery contacts.
With that said, the most common TC issues are caused by incorrect settings or atomizer issues.
Loose 510 center post screws and loose coil leg connections are the most common issues with atomizers.
Corrosion or marring on the mod or atomizer 510 connector is also quite common. For corrosion clean with paper towel and everclear then chuck up a q-tip in a drill and use a little baking soda and water to polish the 510 center pins. 510 center screws on atomizers can get a lip in the screw head slots from tightening too hard. If this occurs, remove the marring with a file, sanding board or sharpening stone.
Those are the most common issues to look for but lets talk about some common symptoms. As there are multiple problems that can cause each symptom, you have to use a process of elimination to find the problem. First thing to do is swap the atomizer to another mod and see if the problem follows the mod or the atomizer.
My TC mod is burning up my coils.
This can be caused by the wrong coil metal type setting in the mod for the coil metal type being used. It can also be caused by loose screws and coil leg connections in the atty. It can also be caused by a bad 510 connector or bad wiring internal to the mod. It can also be caused by a bad TC board.
Temp Protection kicks in and I am getting little vapor.
And when you put that atty on a VV/VW or mech mod it vapes fine. The truth is, it isn't vaping fine. In this condition it is highly likely you are over temperature caused by insufficient juice flow. Try rewicking with less wick.
The vape taste seems off.
This could actually be you. Most people coming from VW devices comment about this because they have become used to the taste of cracking/decomposing/burning their eLiquid or simply running too much power causing the build to reach too high a temperature. And they have no idea. Often adamant that they know what their eLiquid tastes like. Well they don't. All this time they have gotten use to it and had no idea what was really going on. In other words, with TC set at a temperature below the decomposition temperature of their eLiquid and all it's ingredients, you actually get to taste what your e-Liquid is supposed to taste like not when it is cracked or decomposed.
When it is a mod/atty issue, this is commonly caused by the incorrect TCR setting for the coil being used. It can also be a build issue or loose connection/screw. It can also be caused by contaminates in the eLiquid, build or atomizer.
When I first fire up after a build I get a bad taste but it goes away.
The most common cause of this is industrial lubricants on the wire used in the manufacturing process. Do not dry burn to the point of visibly glowing the coil. However, after you secure the coil and before wicking it, set your TC mod to 500F and fire blowing on the coil. On a vertical coil build, put the length of wire on an atty base in a big loop and do the same thing before making the coil/build. Make sure your hands are clean and it helps to wear gloves so you don't get skin oils on the wire/wicking.
All the information contained in these pages are only the opinions of the author and the author is not an expert at anything.