Rebuilding Tools


Below are the minimum tools needed for building RBAs. You need a screwdriver to secure the legs of the coil and nearly every atty comes with one. Either a keychain or blue or orange plastic handle mini screwdriver that is the perfect size for the screws. And then something for a mandrel to wrap your coils on like an old drill bit, nail, as long as it is smooth and round so you can wrap the wire on it and slide it off. I have also used machine screws to wind a perfectly spaced coil.

As you get into rebuilding, you may find the below tools very helpful. I also find number zero (#0) and one (#1) phillips and 1/8" - 1/4" flat blade screwdrivers with acetate handles very useful.

A coil winding mandrel or “jig” makes it very handy to wrap coils and are labeled for size matching every step on the shank. This way you can keep track of the coil size as you try different builds to see what affect it has on your vape experience. These are available at your local B&M vape shop or online. The Hakko CHP-170 flush cutters are very good. I use them to snip wire and wick. And they are a lot easier for me to hold. The round black thing is an atty base or “stand”. It is threaded for the 510 connector on RBAs. This makes it a lot easier to hold the atty while securing coils and wicking. And finally a sharp pair of scissors for cutting dry and wet wick.

I do find small (4-4.5") needle nose pliers very handy as well.

Shown below is a resistance (R), non-resistance (NR) wire welder. Though not typically used today. Some cartomizer/cartridge coils use non-resistance wire for the legs. For these, coil builds are in a NR-R-NR configuration. Technically speaking all wire has resistance. But some like Kanthal have more than Ni200. Therefore Kanthal is considered resistance wire while Ni200 is considered non-resistance wire. None of the rebuildable attys require NR-R-NR builds or the welder. However I have used it to weld 24gauge Ni200 to 30gauge Ni200 for vertical coil return legs (24 gauge) where I want most of the resistance, current and heat in the coil (30 gauge) instead of the long return leg. With that said, I have used straight 30 gauge vertical coils with the long return leg with only slight degradation to vape experience so it isn’t necessary.

There are also several resistance/battery testers.

Both of the above use a rechargeable battery, can measure resistance or cig-a-like batteries. The CoilMaster 521 tab on the right uses an 18650, can measure down to .1ohm accurately and can fire the atty for dry burning though not recommended. Although modern TC mods have accurate built in resistance measurement, these can be useful as a stable base for making your builds and checking for shorted wraps/coils.

I have also used fly tying scissors, tungsten carbide jaw cutters, and allen key wrenches.




All the information contained in these pages are only the opinions of the author and the author is not an expert at anything.