Connector Specs

 

Why oh why does everyone have to come up with a new connector? Some I can see based on the size of the device. Others I have no idea why they are invented. I guess so they can try to corner the market. I don’t know. Thankfully there are a few that are fairly universal.

The most common atomizer and battery/mod connectors:
801 9 x .75mm Atty Female/Battery Male
901 8 x .75mm Atty Female/Battery Male
510 7 x .5mm Atty Male/Mod Female
eGo 12 x .5mm Atty Female/Battery or Mod eGo Male with integrated Female 510

The 801 and 901 are used on cig-alike cartomizers. The 510 is used on the majority of glassomizers, RBAs and APV/mods. The eGo is proprietary and found on clearos and eGo batteries. The eGo battery also has a female 510 connector inside the male eGo. Adapters are made for APVs with just a 510 to use an eGo threaded atomizer.
The 801 and 901 is used on cig-alike cartomizers with the 801 being the larger of the two. That means the cig-a-like body is larger on an 801. There are other connectors used with carto cig-a-likes such as the RN4081 that is a totally different configuration even though it is also 8x.75mm. Brands that use RN4081 threading include NJoy Pro, SafeCig, Metro ECig, SmokeEveryWhere Gold, South Beach Smoke, Smoke Anywhere. Adapters from RN4081 to 510 exist.
The most commonly used connector is the “510” connector shown below on an atomizer.



The male 510 on some atomizers have a fixed center pin and others have an adjustable center pin. The adjustable is shown above. The center pin is the positive as is the case with all these connectors. The female 510 on some APV/mods is fixed while most are adjustable or spring loaded. Copper, SS, brass and chrome/silver plated brass have been used for 510 center pins. Those with copper claim better connectivity and lower resistance which is true as out of all the materials, silver and copper are the best affordable conductors. On occasion there have also been gold plated but the plating even with silver is often too thin and unsubstantial to make an electrical conductivity difference. However in practice I find SS works just fine and gold or silver plated is a great compromise as raw copper and brass tend to corrode. Brass and SS have been used for the ground outside thread part of the 510 in APV/mods. The VAMO is an example of brass being used. I do not like that at all. The threads are easy to pull and they almost always corrode as the chrome plating wears off very quickly. However, the VAMO top cap is available and can be replaced. Some mods and attys also have a problem with pushed pins. An earlier VAMO and Nautilus tank I had did just that. The center pin on the nautilus would push out and eventually push out the center pin on the VAMO.


Manufacturers make the pin depth different on both attys and mods. And they can vary widely and wildly. Because of this, atty and mod combinations that won’t work together or stop working are rare but it has happened. To alleviate that, manufacturers have started making the center pins in the 510 connectors on attys and mods adjustable or spring loaded. Personally, I prefer the spring loaded center pin in the APV/mod and fixed center pin on the atty preferable to an adjustable one in the atty or APV/mod. With that said, the spring loaded 510 connectors in APV/mods can leak e-Liquid into the mod even with an o-ring seal. It has happened to me. But most do not. If your APV/mod has a fixed center pin then there is little risk of a leak, but you may need to only buy attys that have an adjustable center pin.


Given the large size and mass of the mod and atty, the small in comparison 510 connection point is the weak link in case of accidental drop or bump. Usually the threads will pull requiring the atty to be replaced or the connector on the APV/mod to be replaced. Few attys can have their 510 replaced. I like APVs and mods that can have their 510 replaced. On most tube mods, the entire top cap has to be replaced as they are usually machined as one piece.
The other most prevalent connector used is the proprietary eGo shown below.



The eGo is far stronger than the 510 and has fewer problems. It is also unambiguous. Shown above is the female on the left which is used on the atomizer, in this case a T3 clearo while the male is on the battery shown on the right. The eGo also has a female 510 inside the male eGo and some 510 glassomizers come with a beauty ring that makes a better looking transition from an eGo battery to the tank. An example of this is the Nautilus shown below.



Another proprietary connector is the P3 by Provari shown below on the left. And there are adapters available to go from P3 on the Provari APV to an eGo/510 shown below on the right. The P3 accommodates a 510 with either the eGo adapter or a simple ring adapter.



While I do agree the P3 connector is superior to a 510 it is not common place. With that said there are attys available with an integral P3. The Kayfun V4 for example can be changed to either P3 or 510. The biggest drawback of Provari is the lack of temperature protection.

We do need a better standard connector than the 510 and eGo with Temperature Control. Not a proprietary one. But an open one that offers better conductivity and lower resistance. A lot more contact surface area. And the mod can come with a 510 adaptor for backwards compatibility. Something like the P3 above but with the center pin twice the diameter. Even a hemispherical or cone shape would offer more contact surface area. But alas, I do not see one in sight.

   

 

 

All the information contained in these pages are only the opinions of the author and the author is not an expert at anything.