(so far)

Not recommended for beginners just switching over from smoking.

The "BEST" of anything is what works for you to keep you from smoking. With that said I have over 100 different atomizers and over two dozen mods and there have been a couple improvements this year worth noting.

The Fuchai Squonk 213 is a much better squonker than the Capo Squonk 100. I have them both and there really is no comparison. The Capo is NOT temp control, just variable wattage. The Fuchai is Temp Control and gives a really satisfying vape under TC. Further, you are going to run TC wire on the Capo even though it is not TC. Why? Because it is single battery and is buck only, no boost. So what that means is, if you make a Kanthal coil of lets say a typical 1ohm then MAX power the CAPO can provide  is 17.64W ignoring droop and inefficiency. So lets use reciprocity and calculate what resistance is needed to get 100W and the winner is 0.1764ohms ignoring droop and inefficiency. So the reality is you need to be .2 ohms or less to get any appreciable power out of the Capo Squonk and really closer to .1 ohm which is...the resistance typically found in a NI200 coil build for Temp Control. So that's why I say you will want to use temp control wire with the Capo even though it doesn't do temp control.

Pair the Fuchai with a Golisi S35 21700 from Element Vape and you are good to go. Buy two, keep one on charge while using the other so you cna swap and go. Remember to watch Moochs battery test charts. At the time of this writing, the S35 is one of the best for both current performance and capacity of available batteries. When the Samsung 30T becomes available it will be the recommended battery for the Fuchai. Note the Sigelei 21700 is AWOL. Which is kind of a bummer. To get the max power you need a battery that can provide that kind of power and right now, there isn't any. No single 21700, 20700, or 18650 battery can provide 150+ Watts of power, let alone safely. Reality is around 100W with a 30A (S35) battery and 120W with a 35A (30T) battery. For 150W the battery would have to provide 40A at a voltage sag of 3.7V. I don't know of any batteries that can do that continuously and therefore safely and neither does Mooch according to his tables. So ignore the 150W. It is a solid 100W device, just realize that and ignore the marketing BS, it really is a nice vape and that's what matters. It is also inexpensive, I found it on ebay brand new for ~40$.

The Fuchai comes with a color matched dual coil, side air, squonk RDA. It works ok, I'm not a fan of the posts but it works with tougher wires like 24 gauge NiFethal or SS without cutting them. If you use smaller gauge or soft wire like Ni200 you may want to do some work on the posts so they won't cut your wires. This is a topic I lament China for all over my website. Those velocity style posts need to disappear forever until china learns how to make the through holes without sharp lips that cut your wires.

I also like the squonk bottle, it is without doubt the softest bottle I have ever squeezed and I like the design for filing and mounting. ANd unlike the Kangers, Movkins and Geek Vape squonkers I own, the bottles in the Fuchai and Capo didn't stink after washing with everclear but both did have a goofy smell before washing. All the others I had to replace the tubing and bottles because of the chemical smell and taste.

SO that doesn't mean the Capo is horrible. It's not. It works very well and I like the heft and quality of the Rainbow version, very stout feeling and since I have TC wire on hand, I find it vapes very good in VW. Pair it with whatever squonk RDA floats your boat, pictured is an Apocalypse Gen 2 "Styled" for $7.90 from Fasttech. The posts are wonderful, they secure any size or type wire WITHOUT cutting it. Great posts. Nice cheap squonk RDA and I happen to love the cobalt blue look. Throw in a coil of Nifethal or SS and magic occurs. As those TC wires heat up their resistance increases lessing the power the Capo can throw at it. It's kinda like a built in power governer which with the right build can result in a defacto temp control just because the device cannot boost. Cool huh? Well the trick is getting the right resistance and wire but basically something in the .2 range at ambient that ends up at .4 or more at vaping temperature works for me fairly well.

Although not perfect, right now the Sigelei Fuchai squonk kit is the best out there all things considered.

Unfortunates and what not to look for:

These are examples of squonking RTAs (don't need a squonk mod): Superhero, Fountain. Unfortunately I can't recommend these as they have top airflow which is the worst airflow.

The DNA200 is a fantastic chipset and I have built my own using 2600maH LiPo packs and of course the RX200 and Triade using three 18650s with around 6000maH. But at 900maH in the Halcyon for example, that is just not enough capacity. You will burn through that quickly with a dual coil RDA as they put out gobs of vapor that also means they drink the power.

The DNA75/60 are also fantastic chipsets but mods that use one 18650 battery like the Therion squonk version (which loses a battery to sport the bottle)  have around 1500maH to sport a 30A battery. While better than 900maH, it's hard to beat a dual battery mod, squonk or otherwise.

So I wouldn't consider any squonk mod that uses one 18650 battery. Having a 21700 or sometimes a 20700 battery is like having two 18650 capacity wise. Take the G35 for example, 3700mAh and 30A as Mooch tested. Compare that with a typical 30A 18650 at 1500mAh like the LG HB2-6.





All the information contained in these pages are only the opinions of the author and the author is not an expert at anything.