(so far)

The "BEST" of anything is what works for you to keep you from smoking. With that said I have over 100 different atomizers and there have been a couple improvements this year worth noting.

The Aristo executive and Veppo are the primary solutions available as of 8.8.2016. But there was a decent tube mode that could be wrapped with a faux paper skin to simulate a cigar.

Without a doubt the EHPRO 101 MOD is sleek and versatile. While technically not an e-Cigar, all of the technically correct e-Cigars fall far short. So be sure to see this page for post 8.8.2016 e-cigar solutions. An e-Cigar has a faux wrap that makes it look like a cigar and most have an LED on the end that lights up when you inhale and most simply operate when you inhale. However no technically correct e-Cigar like those has Temperature Control, and only a few have an open system where you can use your own e-liquid. So I don't recommend them. The EHPRO 101 MOD is what is technically called a "Tube Mod". It is slightly larger in diameter than a cigar tube but not by much, maybe a few millimeters. The 101 is a 22mm tube mod. There is no LED that lights up on the end and you have to press a fire button and it comes in a sleek stainless steel finish. This can easily be wrapped in a faux or real leaf so it looks like a cigar if that matters to you. With a little ingenuity one could add an LED to the end. Adding an inhale switch so you don't have to press a button requires serious technical skills. But just wrap this tube mod in something and press a button and you have the essence of an e-Cigar. The 101D is definitely recommended for either beginners or advanced users. Yes it is more complicated than a fire stick but the reward is worth it.

It comes with two tube sections so you can use either an 18650 or an 18350 battery. Both are 18mm in diameter, the 650 is 650mm in length and the 350 is 350mm in length. In other words, you can shorten it if you want just by unscrewing a tube and using a short battery. While that makes it shorter and lighter, there is a substantial price to pay in run time. And while there are plenty of 18650 batteries to choose from, there are only a couple of 18350s. The 350's just are not as prevalent.

This mod is 50W capable which I find quite sufficient as an experienced vaper and is suitable for beginners.

The 101 is inexpensive as well, if you can find them in stock any where.

Let me say DO NOT BUY from I waited for 35 business days. That's BUSINESS days, counting only M-F's. They showed "In Stock" when I ordered, and that entire time. Which of course was nothing more than a plain blasted dumb lie. I am still waiting on my Hadaly "style" RDAs also from that order but somehow I don't think I will ever see them as the enclosed packing slip with the 101s and emails I received said they were also shipped with that package and that the order was complete. I feel lucky I got the 101s. One was still shrink wrapped, the other wasn't. But they both are blemish free and work perfectly. So word to the wise, there are better vendors. I suggest fasttech, just wait until they are in stock. At least when fasttech says they are in stock, they are actually in stock. The 101 range from $25 to $35 USD.

They will turn themselves off after a period of inactivity and there does not appear to be a way to disable this and they are not SW upgradeable. Turning them on is easy just press the fire button 5 times.

Navigating the menu is a little awkward for a single button mod but once you understand how it works, it becomes second nature.

5 rapid presses - turn on/off

3 rapid presses - enter menu

    While in Menu:

        Each press takes you to a different function. Power Set - Temp Set - WorkMode Set - Calibr Init - DisMode - Exit.

        If you wait on a mode, the system will select it, if you wait on a setting, the system will select it. To cycle to a different mode or setting in a mode, press the fire button. Wait long enough and it will exit.

        For example press fire button rapid 3 times and just wait, Power Set will display, then get selected and 50W will display and get selected, then the system will exit back to operating screen.

        Rapid press 2 times will change direction.

        For example rapid press 3 times to enter menu, press one at a time until Set Temp mode is displayed then wait, then when temperature is displayed press one time and temperature will increase, rapid press twice and arrow will point down then press once and temperature will decrease. press and hold and temperature will continue decreasing. At Fahrenheit and Celsius boundaries the temperature will stop incrementing so release and press and hold again. The increments are round-robin stopping at F/C boundaries. When you have the temperature you want, just wait and the system will select it and exit.

        Calibr Init locks the resistance. This sometimes helps stabilize a flakey atomizer or build but the temperature control will NOT be accurate. I highly suggest figuring out what the problem really is and solving it before using any resistance lock feature. But, if you are on the road and don't have time then maybe it is useful.

        DisMode is display mod so the text on the vaping screen will orient either left or right.

Changing batteries does not lose settings.

All you need to do is set the mode for the atomizer coil you are using, Power for Kanthal or NiCr or TC Ni, Ti or SS for those temperature control metals and then the power or the temperature (360F). Thats it, vape away. So I pick one mode then set either power or temperature. Pretty easy. If you are using a tungsten ceramic coil then use TC Ti mode and set to 320F get an approximate 360F vape. If you are using Nifethal 70 then use TC Ni mode then set temperature to 320 for an approximate 360F vape.

Ok so what battery should you use? Well the website and user manual is amazingly silent. I suggest a 20A battery for the full 50W using Mooch's data. Which means, the Sony VTC6 or Samsung 30Q's will work just fine. Just make sure you buy them from a reputable source and I recommend IMRbatteries. But, that leaves out all the 350's as the best of the 350's can only be "pulsed" to 10A. However, if you vape at 30W or less which is very common for most vapers especially new vapers then any of the top performers will work for that, if you can find them. As a general rule of thumb, a 700mah will safely output more current than an 800, 850, etc mah battery, but there are exceptions. IMRbatteries lists the correct safe current limits for their batteries.

Use whichever atomizer you want. Although anything larger or smaller in diameter than 22mm is going to look awkward. Personally I'm trying to get my hands on Yiloongs newly announced Turin tank as it has top airflow ports even though it is a bottom airflow vertical coil subohm tank. But having the airflow ports up top helps prevents leaks. And, following in the footsteps of the Panda V12, the Turin will have positive juice flow control, as in positively shutoff. The Hadaly or any other short 22mm RDA should work nice too. But remember, not all atomizers work well with TC, they have to have good solid connections, 510 center pin, posts, and securely captured coil legs.

Now EHPRO is announcing the 101 D Kit. Which includes a sleek looking RDA to match the 101...if you can find anyone that has them. DO NOT BELIEVE

I really like the 101 and glad I bought two. Just in case vaporgeddon comes to pass. The only annoyance is it shutting off and having to click 5 times to turn it back on...again...and again...I guess they really just want to save that battery life. But it is just so darn sleek and rugged. I am currently puffing it with a GTII and Nifethal70 build. But I have tried a Krixus with tungsten ceramic, Freemax Scilla with NiCr and a ProTank with Kanthal. They all seat and work fine.

I have had several tube mods, the VAMO, ACE, Seven30, Evic Supreme, a couple Sigelis, etc and I have to admit, this 101 is by far my favorite tube mod / e-Cigar because it is accurate in TC, sleek, made of SS, and a small single battery footprint. So why do I like SS? Well it is stronger, tougher, more secure incase of a battery event, looks and feels solid and easy to remove scuffs with fine emery cloth, crocus cloth, or even a 3M Scotch Brite Pad, white #7445, or polish and a rag 1000-1200 grit.  Just tape up the screen area first.  The only downsides to a SS tube mod is dents. You can get them out with a rod, anvil and hammer so it will function, in this case accept a battery, but they never look right again and the threads get warped. So don't dent it. Run time is excellent too which means it is fairly efficient. The screen is smallish and I appreciate the familiarity with nomenclature (cloned) but it has all the right information at the right time which can be a challenge with some mods.

Unfortunates and what not to look for:

Today there just are not a lot of choices for tube mods that are not All In Ones (AIOs). There is only one other current tube mod that I am aware of and it is very high end, you can buy several of these for one of those.





All the information contained in these pages are only the opinions of the author and the author is not an expert at anything.