Glassomizers use a pre-made cartridge coil that can be rebuilt with the skill, dexterity and patience and most have an available RBA cartridge. They are so named because their tank material is glass. These are also mistakenly called clearomizers or "clearo" for short. Though to me a distinction was made early on that seems to have been unfortunately pushed by lazy, popular forum category construction. This difference is an important one. A clearomizer has a plastic tank. Though not designed to be rebuilt, rebuilding cartridge coils is possible and is shown on Rebuildable Atomizers. Some Glassomizers come with or can be purchased separately, a coil cartridge section that is intended to be rebuildable. With rare exception, the RBA cartridges are Kayfun style. And the KF style is getting old. Though a vertical RBA was promised for the TFV4 it was never delivered. There are Taifun style horizontal RBA sections for the Freemax/Vapeston Starre, Starre Pro, Scylla and Ceramikas. These perform better than the KF style RBA sections.
As glassomizers today are using large diameter vertical coil cartridges and sustaining high amounts of power, I use a 510 Heatsink. Specifically the one linked. It has adjustable copper center pins on both ends, does a great job at wicking heat away from the atty and protecting the mod, and is TC friendly. I only wish the screws were LH threaded. But I can take the screws out and flatten the threads easily on two sides with a pair of pliers or needle nose slightly. Just slightly. And on two sides. Then screw them back in and that significantly helps secure the screws when I attach an atty or to a mod with a fixed center pin. Note: the hotter the atty gets the less efficient it is electrically. The job of the atty is to provide vaporized eLiquid. Any energy that gets sapped away in the form of heat, to heat the tank, SS and juice in the reservoir, is an inefficiency. So it's a double wammy on battery life. More power means less battery life. More power robbed into heating means less battery life. But they do throw out a lot of vapor.
There are a number of ceramic core atomizers both glassomizer and rebuildables. Be sure to check out the Ceramic Heating Elements page.
The Delta II is a well-protected glassomizer or RBA as shown below. The stainless steel cover over the glass tank only has small slits in the side to see my juice level. This can actually make it difficult to see the juice level in poor lighting. The rebuildable cartridge shown 2nd from left comes separately with a manual, some Kanthal, a little blue screw driver and some extra screws. And it comes pre-built.
As I always wash everything in ever clear I disposed of the pre-wicking. I then re-wicked it Kayfun style with doubled up OC just like the pre-wicking. Shown to the far right above is the standard disposable coil cartridge of the bottom vertical coil design. It has a juice control by rotating the sleeve. The air hole is massive.
Shown above left the Delta II comes apart into three main sections less the cartridge. The chimney, glass tank and top are integral. Shown above right filling the tank is possible with a needle tip bottle, narrow snout bottle or syringe. It is possible to rebuild or change cartridges without emptying the tank. However, I am not able to refill it all the way just to the bottom of the chimney.
The Delta II vapes a fantastic flavor unrestricted draw with the RBA. But to get that flavor, itís going to need some power upwards of 40W. At 35W itís more than I can handle. I have not used the disposable cartridge but I have heard reviewers say it also has an unrestricted draw. The Delta II uses the MMMF for wicking around the coil in the disposable cartridge. If I ever use one, I will rebuild it with OC first. Itís tough to fill like the Squape R and has a small rebuild deck so probably not a good starter but with the optional RBA cartridge, itís a real performer.
The Kanger SubTank is a Hybrid cartridge coil and RTA like the Delta II. While the cartridge coil can be rebuilt itís not designed to be rebuilt. However there is a replacement cartridge that is designed to be rebuildable and it comes pre-built with two Kanthal coils sitting side by side over a single air hole as shown below.
The RBA section as it is called is basically a Kayfun type design with air hole over juice channels. The juice channels cut in the deck are wide but the resulting dimension when the chimney is attached is quite small, noticeable smaller than the Delta II RBA. The two RBA sections are not interchangeable. I do prefer a single coil over the air hole and will support Ni200 and sustain 20-24W.
The eLeaf Melo glassomizer is the cousin to the eLeaf Lemo but nearly identical to the Atlantis and shares it's coil cartridges. While the Lemo is a KF style RTA with massive air flow the Melo is a vertical coil cartridge atty with even more air flow see below.
There is integrated juice control in the chimney. Simply unscrew the base to refill. But I wonít be able to refill it all the way, just to the bottom of the juice control half rounds in the chimney. It comes with two cartridge coils, one in the atty and one off to the side. The cartridges are marked .5ohm 20-30W. In taking it apart there appears to be a crumbly material in the wick. I do not know if it is MMMF or cotton but I go ahead and rewrap using my own KGD. Very easy to rebuild. With the KGD rebuild, Melo is taking 35W. The vertical coil is massive and so is the air flow.
Shown below is an Atlantis style atomizer in black chrome and red glass tank. It is strictly a coil cartridge atomizer and uses the same cartridges as the Melo.
Therefore, rebuilding the coil cartridge and performance is the same as the Melo. The only difference between the two is the Melo has holes under the AFC while the Atlantis has a slot. But I find there is little air flow difference between the two.
This is a very interesting atty. If they ever change the RBA cartridge chimney from aluminum to SS then even better. But an aluminum chimney does give me pause. Non pH balanced e-Liquids will probably react with the aluminum causing the chimney to corrode and may result in aluminum compounds ending up in the e-Liquid. It is like the Delta II and Subtank hybrids in that it can take either a cartridge coil or an RBA cartridge. The cartridge is an Atlantis style and Atlantis cartridges will work in it just fine. And as shown below it looks just like a Kayfun just with better AFC.
I like the concept for a first tank as I can use Atlantis cartridges then switch over to a KF style RBA. Comes with plastic (I would never use) and SS (always use) mid sections and a wider than normal KF style 510 drip tip, an Atlantis style 0.5ohm cartridge and chimney, RBA cartridge and chimney, keychain screwdriver, silica, kanthal and some extra O-rings. While the chimney air holes are generous, the center airhole in the RBA cartridge is a small as shown below.
The RBA vapes well but there are a few things I don't like at all.
1. The RBA chimney is one piece aluminum not SS like the rest of the atty and as seen in picture above, a standard KF chimney is two piece and smaller diameter. Also the height is just a little shy so forget a standard KF top fill cap accessory with the included tank and chimney unless I modify it.
2. I really wish the screws were on the other side of the blocks. As is, the coil length is pretty limited unless I use long legs.
3. The posi-post air hole in the KF style RBA "cartridge" is typical KF ~1.6mm. But I was able to drill it out to 2mm.
It does not have side through holes for coil leg capture which I think is a plus. The airflow control ring has detents and one small hole, one larger hole and one mammoth slot.
Juice channels are decent, better than most Kayfuns, not as good as a Russian 91. On par with the Delta II RBA juice channels, although the air hole on this is much smaller.
Also the 510 center pin is fixed, nonadjustable but it works fine on mods with spring loaded or adjustable 510s. The Kayfun standard chimney will not work on this as shown above. However, I found it possible to use a top-fill cap and/or quartz tank by adding a small piece of 1/4" Polyethylene water supply line to the top of the chimney as shown below.
Performance with the Atlantis cartridge is par for an Atlantis while performance with the RBA cartridge is on par with a V3.1 Kayfun.
Now there is a new breed of atty that I find has a lot of potential shown below.
The Cera Vape Hygeia which is a throwback to the cartridge coil tank glassomizer is so easy to rebuild that I almost consider it a RTA. With one very important and distinct difference from them. It uses a porous ceramic tube for the wick instead of silica rope. While most will hesitate to call it a RTA, I find it a lot easier to rebuild than a silica rope based coil cartridge or Fogger and it can be rebuilt with Ni200 wire instead of the Kanthal the pre-made cartridges come with as shown below. I do not buy into Cera Vapes claims of ďmore pure tasteĒ or ďlasts longerĒ. But it has other merits that make it promising.
The Ni200 wire is necessary for use on a DNA-40 enabling itsí temperature protect feature. The ceramic wick is not delicate and makes rebuilds easy. The ceramic wick serves as the mandrel for winding the coil. I use spaced ie non-touching wraps. Also I clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol. I used cheap vodka for this build.
Rebuild is very similar to rebuilding other cartridges from Aspire and Kanger. But what makes this so much easier is the ceramic tube wick. On the other cartridges, the coils are smaller in diameter and I wind on flimsy wick often using a needle to give the structure rigidity, then pulling the needle out before installing in the cartridge. On this, simply wind on the ceramic tube as a mandrel.
Only tools needed are a keychain screwdriver (readily available and one comes with every fogger but any small diameter rod, eyeglasses or jewelers screwdriver will work) and clippers. I use the Philips head to push out the ceramic tube. Insert the screwdriver through the hole on the bottom pin to pull out the pin, kind of like a T-handle. Pull out the silicon insulator sleeve then push the screwdriver through the end of the cartridge to push out the coil. Wind Ni200 on the ceramic tube, then pull out the ceramic tube. Insert the coil into the top of the cartridge with legs poking through the bottom hole. Lay cartridge on its side and align the coil with the hole then push the ceramic tube through gently while twisting it to get it started then pick up the cartridge look through the top as I twist, push and align the ceramic tube and coil to go through the coil and the other side of the cartridge. I find this to be quite easy but needs close up vision so using a magnifying glass or glasses is a must as my close up vision is impaired. Once the ceramic tube and coil are in place then I insert the sleeve in the bottom with one leg outside the sleeve and the other through the sleeve and bend the legs over the sides 180 from each other. Then I insert the bottom pin by inserting the screw driver through the hole in the pin like a T handle and push it in as it is a very tight fit. Then snip off the legs. The only hiccup in cartridge rebuilds is making sure the leg of the coil that goes through the sleeve for the positive center pin does not touch the side of the cartridge or it will have a short. This is easily accomplished by using the flat blade of the keychain screw driver to push the coil loops over and evening the spread at the same time if necessary.
I can rebuild this ceramic wick coil cartridge in less than three and a half minutes. Thatís faster than rebuilding a KF. And given my over fifty eyesight and big fingers, that is pretty amazing. The ceramic tube wick does three things. First it serves as a nice firm mandrel for wrapping and making coils. It also makes it easier for rebuilding the coil cartridge in keeping the wick and coil in line with the holes on the side of the cartridge casing. And third, because it is a hollow cylinder, it keeps the path that juice has to flow from the reservoir to the coil very short (tube wall thickness) and uniform across the entire length of the coil vice shorter to the coil outside wraps than the inner coil wraps as with any other atty. Notice the discoloration on the ceramic wick. This is evidence of black gunk building up on the coil and wick prior to my rebuild and use of TC.
I also wicked the Hygeia with rayon though I find the juice flow and vapor production identical to the ceramic. Simply push out the ceramic and thread a tuft of cotton or rayon through.
I have seen a lot of online posts about people finding it can only take 6 to 8W and that it doesnít flow juice well. First, 6-8W is typical for a single coil cartridge. Second, that has definitely not been my experience and I have tried three different cartridges to eliminate my experience as being due to a one-off. I routinely sustain 12-14W. But it is real trouble of anything beyond that with 100VG. Since I use 100% VG which is very viscous, I have found two simple tricks to keep it flowing juice really well. One is to blow through the drip tip a couple times then start vaping. I have also sustained 18W by closing off the air hole with a finger then blowing hard one time and then start vaping. The porous tube doesnít exchange air back into the tank as well since I run 100% VG which creates a vacuum in the tank that restricts the juice flow through the wick. The other trick is to add a couple drops of water to the tank to thin the VG. With this, the blow trick isnít needed. And as always with adding water to thin the mix, I will get a ďsteamyĒ vape. In other words if I used flavoring I expect it would be muted. I have also found that adding a few drops of pg based vanilla flavoring (no sugars) thins it just as well without the ďsteamyĒ vape affect. Instead I get the vape affect with lots of vanilla yumminess.
The Hygeia does have two other drawbacks. First, it is a very tight draw. I find the largest airhole on the airflow control ring the minimum acceptable and I really want it to be larger. Second, while a dual coil cartridge has been promised, it has not been produced yet. And that alone would double the power it can sustain.
The way to vape the hygeia is light inhale and let it fill my mouth. Donít drag hard on it. When it is flowing juice well it creates enough vapor to give the sensation of a more airy draw.
If your mod does not have a spring loaded 510 center pin then be aware that the Hygeia does not have an adjustable 510 center pin. While it shouldnít be an issue for it to work, it may not sit flush on your mod.
And best of all, unlike all the others, it has not flooded or leaked...ever. Not when filling, vaping or sitting. So for me, the merits of easy to rebuild with Ni200, great juice flow and vapor production for a single coil, easy to refill without tools or needles, airflow control ring with detents that doesn't rattle or want to fall off, no flooding or leaking and made of SS and glass, outweighs the tight draw.
By the time this book is released, hopefully Hygeia will have fixed these short comings. The concept of the hollow tube porous ceramic wick has great potential. I can see it being used in KFs and other rebuildables. As is, the Hygeia is pretty good. With a few fixes it can be great.
Others I have but havenít pictured or wrote up:
Good glassomizer, kayfun style RBA, nephews like it.
With adapter kits takes any cartridge. Kayfun RBA
Complicated design with left hand threads and latch where I would not expect them. Peformance not worth it.
Nothing to write home about.
I either like big and square or I donít.
Good glassomizer needs vertical RBA that was promised and never delivered. Excellent performance and can be adjusted with various cartridges/RBA sections and AFC for either MTL or DTL.
Ceramic cartridges. Not bad at all but still need more juice flow. Will take the cartridge apart and modify the juice holes and rebuild (future proeject). But forget about the ceramic cartridges for a minute, the RBA unit is Taifun style with dual coils and I really like the post design, it doesn't cut or pull the coil legs. I can put in dual parallel or dual series coils. That same RBA unit can be used in the other Freemax/Vapeston tanks like the Starre/pro and Ceramikas.
This cartridge can be used in Atlantis/Melo/Triton/Vaporesso tanks. Target is the name of the tank and mod they were originally used for. Some speculation as to materials and health safety as is the case with all ceramics.
I was on Alibaba looking for inexpensive nonporous vertical
tube Tungsten encapsulated in ceramic heating elements for use in various
cartridge rebuilds or replacements for the Krixus and found them from Modvapa at
$2.50 each which was the cheapest I could find so I ordered 10. Modvapa decided
to throw this in for free. I'm not sure why this tank hasn't made the mainstream
yet, it has a lot to offer.
Things I like:
Takes 510 drip tips.
Glass Tank - fire polished edges and comes with spare.
Top Fill - no needle needed and 4ml.
Juice Flow Control - seals very well.
510 threads unpainted.
Adjustable 510 center pin.
Air Flow Control - rotates ~90 degrees and wide open is DTL.
Came with RBA section.
Came with three different wire center wrap cartridges all clearly marked for resistance and power, two are Clapton, all with Kanthal and OC.
Cartridge design - easy to rebuild, no outer metal casing, the chimney serves as the outer casing.
Main AFC has flats, bottom tank rings are knurled and top fill cap is grooved making this thing easy to grip to attach, fill, close/open JFC and AFC.
I like the top fill design shown below. Given the seal design there is no worry about compressing the tank contents and the fill ports work without the need for needles. And the Panda has a JFC necessary for top fills.
Shown below are the JFC closed on the left and open on the right. I can clearly see the red seal when it is closed.
I also like the base because it has a landing pad for the cartridge button as shown below. These designs won't push out the 510 center pin.
The manual shown below is currently in Chinese though.
It came with a lot of extras including an RBA section and tank bottom chimney needed for it as shown below.
Update from Modvapa/
Boxed retail will include:
1*panda v12 tank
1*0.5ohm regular coil without sleeve
1*0.5ohm clapton coil without sleeve
1*1.0ohm clapton coil without sleeve
1*spare glass tank
extra o-rings /silicone seal
RBA section will be sold separate.
The cartridge design as shown below is unique. In this case is a disassembled ceramic cartridge but even the wire center cartridges are the same. There is no outer casing. The inside of the chimney serves as the cartridge outer casing. That makes rebuilding them or in the case of the ceramic rewicking them very easy.
And lastly here is a close up of the ceramic core.
Ceramic coil legs are silver soldered. I have a question in about cadmium. I will update when I get a response.
I am very impressed with the Panda V12. This will easily become my favorite Glassomizer. And given the ceramic cores are inexpensive they can be repurposed in other atomizer coil cartridges.
The only thing I don't like about the Panda is the same thing I find with all prebuilt coil cartridges from everyone, they work with 100VG but not as well as when I rebuild them with less wicking. But given the ease of rebuild with these cartridges, that clearly isn't an issue.
Things to note:
It comes with an AFC equipped drip tip for slip streaming. I don't use them but some may like that.
Cartridges are clearly marked for resistance and power.
Ceramic core cartridges are separate but for now at least, inexpensive.
I think ceramics have a good future, here is a discussion on Ceramic Cartridges. Additional ceramic products and discussions will be coming in the near future.
The Rafale from Uwell can sport a vertical RBA although it must be purchased separately. There is no JFC which is ok as the patented top fill mechanism on the Rafale is a disaster. Best to bottom fill these. Also the VRBA and coils are not interchangeable with Uwell's Crown tank or any other glasso that I have. It also not available in black.
Other than that it works fine.
The Vapeston Ceramikas
I like the RBA, but prefer the Starre or Scylla for filling.
There is a thin plastic flapper valve dome under the drip tip for filling.
Twist the top fill through drip tip twist the top. I had some difficulty with the top fill and 100VG. Thinner juice may work better.
Same ceramic cartridges as Scylla but the RBA has a 5mm hole for a 5mm single coil Taifun style straight through wick. I took the ceramic out of the ceramic cartridge with tiny juice holes, used my own OC and the RBA section for the larger juice holes.
Comes with a mandrel for wrapping your own coils.
Also comes with a couple NR-R-NR coils, one piece of OC, extra center pin, couple extra O-rings and insulator grommets. RBA is premade with OC and NR-R-NR. Ceramic cartridge installed in atomizer.
There is a JFC ring on the RBA cartridge. Not externally adjustable. I can take bottom off tank for changing JFC ring/cartridge without having to empty tank.
AFC with detents and stops.
Did have a funky chemical smell so always wash attys out first.
The slotted, vertical tube tungsten encapsulated in nonporous ceramic heating element has large uncoated solder pads for the legs. I don't know if they are silver soldered and if so I do not know if the silver solder is cadmium free. Uncoated pads on these type of ceramic elements is not specific to freemax/vapeston but the solder pads are larger than the modvapa or Krixus elements.
All the information contained in these pages are only the opinions of the author and the author is not an expert at anything.